03 July, 2012

Oh Trujillo, you're breakin my heart

'You're shakin my confidence daily, oh Trujillo, I'm down on my knees, I'm begging you please to go home, go on home!' (sing this to the Simon and Garfunkel 'Cecilia').


Woo-hoo - two new posts within the space of a few days. Shows how bored shiteless I am in this place called Trujillo. This dump is the third largest city in Peru, the 'Capital of the Everlasting Spring' (yeah right, a cloud of fog more like) and the birthplace of Peru's judiciary and was the scene of the Revolution of Trujillo in 1932 and to be honest looks like the revolution never ended. A bit of brightly coloured buildings in the plaza and pink and blue buildings falling down all over the place, with every car being a taxi (probably to take people anywhere but here).  Apparently it was twice the capital of Peru - thank God, some judge up here decided to give it back to Lima, as he obviously realised how awful it was and saw sense in returning it to its rightful place.


This place is boring with a capital 'B'. Reasons to those stated above: -

  • Tried to find a bit of nightlife here - the first being an Irish bar called 'The Office'. Googled it and went in search of it (as there was nowhere near the plaza opened or any bars that were mentioned either closed down, were non-existent). Asked lots of people where it was and got looks of uncertainty, so the time came to google it again, not only to realise this bar was actually in Trujillo in Costa Rica (just thousands of miles up into Central America).
  • The hostel is like a ghost-hostel with the room resembling that of a box, with an entrance of white iron gates, resembling that in a convent. It does have big showers mind you; and the daily breakfast of two baps and jam are coming out of my ears.
  • The streets are lined in a grid shape and unfortunately they all lead back to the Plaza de Armas, which is dull, in comparison to Cusco terms. The only exciting thing happening, was one man singing out loud to people sitting on the benches (to be honest, I think he was a bit mental anyway).
  • Received a sheet of info from the lady who owned the hostel and one of the main highlights of Trujillo was to go and visit the 'Museo de Jugetes' - 'The Toy Museum' ..eh no thanks along with a UNESCO  World Heritage Site of 'Chan Chan' - In my non exciting historical eyes; it's a big sandcastle that has eroded away.  The only joy I got visiting here was trying to be a rebel by climbing over a bit of rope onto another piece of sand and getting a whistle blown at me by the Security Guard shouting 'Prohibito'. It was open from 9-4.30pm - myself and Grainne arrived up at 2.20pm and were walking out of it by 2.40pm down the dusty 2km road back onto the main 'highway'
  • Turn from the plaza and take a left down one street and you'll find a shop selling glasses and next to this shop, you'll find another selling glasses and the same repeated the whole way down - I have no idea how any of these people make a living when the shop right next door is exactly the same.
  • There is the beach however, which is a 40 minute combi-ride out of the historical centre and is a nice change, but looks a bit like Newcastle Beach in County Down about 30 years ago where you're not sure if it is sand or dog poo that you are treading in along the path.  Maybe it's history and quaintness are lost on me because I can't wait to get the hell out of this complete dive. It like being in a prison here - even walking on the streets zaps all the energy from you.  The only joy we've had so far is eating at a nice restaurant for 9 Soles (£2) for 3 courses and Grainne trimming my hair!!
But, of course, I am getting out of here in less than 24 hours time and Grainne is heading south to Arequipa, so I'm on my own travelling again. Three days was enough here. I have booked myself onto some dodgy bus that the locals get heading up the coast (gone are the posh/safe/expensive/GPS Navigation/ 2 bus drivers & host/fully reclining seats/free wifi/food on board Cruz del Sur buses that I've been using here in Peru) to Talara which is 9 hours drive away. It'll be my own food/stuck beside a chorlita with bread sticking out of her backpack/seats that recline 5 degrees or knowing my luck, forward/free Wifi for anyone wishing to steal my laptop/1 bus driver maybe taking a nap up the coast/28 Soles (£6 for a 9 hour bus journey compared to nearly 90 Soles for the same length of time on Cruz del Sur to get to Trujillo from Lima).

After this, I will be heading off into the desert of Peru - the west coast is very deserted the further north you go. As I said before, I will be going to a place called 'Lobitos' which used to be an old English port which has now been taken over by the Peruvian military and is being used as a base and training area, in the middle of a desert 40 minutes away from the nearest town or city.

After my bus arrives in Talara, hopefully with my bags still with me at this point, I have to try and get my way to Lobitos using a moto-taxi or combi (but somehow I don't think I'll be appreciated on a combi the size of a workers van with people squashed into it and me and my big pink bag entering) and find my way to a big 'pink house'. But before I find this I need to pass through the police check-point in the area. The people I'll be working with sound absolutely lovely and the place seems pretty chilled out, so looking forward to it. Anything is an improvement to Trujillo, even the vast emptiness of a desert on one side, with the sound of the ocean on another sounds good...'Jubilaaaaaation!!!!' (the end of the song for Cecilia/'Trujillo').




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